Having borrowed from its wild rosehip its best properties - unpretentiousness, frost resistance and plentiful flowering, ground cover roses are among the most unpretentious and easy-to-care varieties of aristocratic garden flowers that do not require regular pruning and top dressing. That is why the popularity of landscape roses is expanding throughout the world, especially in countries with difficult climatic conditions, where gardeners did not always manage to grow a capricious queen of flowers. Now, having planted a ground cover rose on your site, you can be sure that it will not only decorate flower beds, slopes, garden terraces with a bright carpet, but it will not cause much trouble in the process of leaving.
Groundcover roses in garden design
Abundantly blooming from spring to frost and easy to grow, ground cover roses are resistant to various diseases and winter cold. In the design of the garden landscape, they are ideal for decorating gentle slopes and creating low plant borders along the paths. Planted in flowerpots or in raised flowerbeds, creeping roses look especially impressive due to the gently hanging branches dotted with caps of inflorescences, and then - bright autumn fruits. Flowerbeds with ground cover roses that rise above the level of the site, not only look aesthetically pleasing for almost the whole year, they can easily solve the problem with skinny soils and drainage of the rosary - the enclosed space is easy to fill with fertile soil mixture and remove excess moisture.
Ground cover roses create a spectacular setting for paths and paths in the garden
Reflecting in a mirror of water, carpet roses will decorate with their presence the coastal zone of a reservoir
Some varieties of carpet roses, with weaving properties, will be an ideal decoration for pergolas, arbors, fences, will act as an accent tier in a hedge or diversify a green lawn with flowering islands. Hybrids of boles and landscape roses with an expressive weeping crown shape and lash-like shoots are increasingly used as solitaries in landscape design. In addition, ground cover roses in landscape design can play not only a decorative role, but also solve some practical problems - planted on a slope with elements of soil erosion, they will strengthen the top layer of the soil and prevent its washing out during floods and seasonal precipitation.
For other perennial ground cover plants for garden design, you can find out from the material: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/pochvopokrovnye-rasteniya-dlya-sada.html
Scarlet creeping roses add a bright accent to the decoration of low borders and retaining walls in the terraced garden
A deep red ground cover rose with simple inflorescences looks great in a flower bed along the edge of the path
Origin and selection of groundcover roses
The impetus for the cultivation of groundcover roses was Rosa rugosa - a wrinkled or Japanese rose with bright raspberry flowers, whose homeland is eastern Asia, or rather, northeast China, Japan, Korea, and southeast Siberia. Rosa rugosa rubra, or popularly known as wild rose, grows wild on the sand dunes of coastal zones and in 1796 became a plant form, giving rise to a whole class of hybrid creeping roses that can cover vast tracts of land. Gardeners also used the Rosa wichurana cultivar to select groundcover roses, which was widely used in the 19th century for vertical gardening and the formation of floral carpets in landscape design.
Read more about vertical gardening here: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/vertikalnoe-ozelenenie-dachi-svoimi-rukami.html
During the 20-30s of the 20th century, varieties of roses Max Graf and Fairy were bred, which can already be fully classified as ground cover, and in the 60s the popular Nozomi and Sea Foam appeared. Further selection of landscape roses continued in the 70-80s, when the French company Meilland Star Rose grew a series of successful varieties - Fiona, Swany, La Sevillana, Lovely Fairy, Alba Maidiland, Bionica 82. Some of the best and most beautiful varieties of ground cover roses on today is Mirato, Diamant, Knirps, Hello, Kent, Red Bells, Ambercover, Limesglut, Limesperle, Limesgold. At the beginning of the 21st century, Meilland introduced a series of Drift carpet varieties, which it developed by crossing miniature and groundcover roses - resulting in compact, stunted, brightly flowering and surprisingly viable flowers.
According to Russian gardeners, the most successful varieties of landscape roses for growing in the domestic climate are as follows:
- pink: Palmergarten Frankfurt, Les Quatre Saisons, Fairy, Knirps;
- reds: Gartnerfreude, Hello, Red Leonardo, Scarlet Meillandecor;
- white: Aspirin Rose, Blanc Meillandecor, Sea Foam, Swany, Ice Meidiland, Snow Ballet, Alba Meillandecor, Diamant;
- yellow: Nadia Meillandecor;
- orange: Ninette, Apricot Clementine.
When selecting ground cover roses for landscape decoration, it is necessary to take into account that there is no strict classification of these varieties in gardening - carpet roses in foreign catalogs can be found in scrubs, in Floribunda roses, and in weaving species. German rose cultivation specialists distinguish 5 subgroups of ground cover varieties: low with creeping shoots, low with long creeping shoots, low highly branched, wide upright, wide with flowing wattled shoots.
Small terry flowers of a yellow ground cover rose will create an unprecedented beauty border, emphasizing the bends of the garden path
In order to accent the staircase, it is enough to place at the beginning two large flowerpots with ground-cover roses of expressive orange color
In general, groundcover roses have the following unifying decorative and biological features:
- densely branched bushes with a width exceeding the height;
- rapid growth of shoots;
- long and plentiful flowering;
- resistance to frost, pests, diseases;
- lack of need for strong pruning and careful leaving.
What “partners” are suitable for cohabitation?
When choosing partners for ground cover roses, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of the color scheme, the flowering period, as well as the shape, texture and color of the foliage of the plants. It is also worth paying attention to the conditions for growing companions for the aristocrat of the garden landscape - they must be light and heat-loving, similar to roses. Beautiful ensembles with carpet roses of any shades and grades creates lavender, daylily, geranium. The queen of the garden looks harmonious with a variety of herbs and cereals - rosemary, fennel, thyme, fescue, sage, garlic, onions. Creeping roses with primroses, viols, geykhera, hosts are perfectly combined. But the most expressive will be the combination of rose bushes with plants that have silvery leaves - cloves, wormwood, santolin.
Traditional rose companions in a mixborder and flowerbed:
- for the lower tier - cuff, bell, iris;
- for the middle tier - delphinium, digitalis, dahlias;
- as an accent - clematis, bulbous primroses, lilies.
One of the most romantic couples is formed between a rose and clematis, especially its varieties with purple flowers Clematis viticella and Clematis integrifolia. The combination of roses with herbs will avoid overloading the rosary and dilute the planting of flowers with neutral green tones. Aerial cereals planted in the foreground of the flower garden will give it a romantic mood and form a lush border for a groundcover rose. Planting tall cereals, such as Chinese miscanthus, pearl millet, acanthatic reed in the background of the rosary will create a favorable background for roses and add depth to the flower arrangement.
Also, material on creating multi-tiered flower beds will be useful: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/mnogoyarusnaya-klumba.html
Creeping roses can be successfully included in the composition of the alpine slide
Making a rose garden of groundcover roses
Stage # 1 - Choosing a Place to Land
The development and growth of a groundcover rose, as well as any other, are significantly affected by the following factors:
- illumination and slope of the landing site;
- temperature condition;
- soil moisture;
- soil acidity;
- planting density.
Roses are photophilous plants - intensive insolation of the planting area promotes long-term flowering and abundant bud formation due to the rapid movement of nutrient ingredients from the soil to the plant and optimal evaporation of moisture from the surface of the foliage. It is desirable that the place of planting of roses has a slope of about 7-11 degrees to the southeast or west, it is well lit by the sun in the first half of the day, and on hot, midday hours it was in the shade. If for most of the day the roses will be under the scorching rays of the sun, then their color will turn pale, the petals will “burn out” and they will quickly fade.
To prepare a good place for the rosary, consider the soil requirements: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/ot-chego-zavisit-plodorodie-pochvy.html
Miniature perennials planted in the foreground of medium-high groundcover roses emphasize the beauty of abundantly flowering bushes
The proximity of shrubs and trees will help create the shadow necessary for roses and, in addition, protect them from the wind. But at the same time, it is impossible to place the rose garden at a small distance from the overall garden plants - they will take away nutrients and moisture from the roses, forming a zone of prolonged shading. In poorly lit areas of the garden - near the walls of buildings and under the crowns of trees, the root system of the rose slows down, shoots become thin and weak, often “blind” branches without flowers form, fungal diseases occur.
It's important to know! The slope of the rose planting zone contributes to the optimal insolation of the plot, the removal of melt water in the spring, as well as the effective drainage of the soil during heavy rainfall. In addition, rose gardens, raised by 40-50 centimeters relative to the general level of the garden, will practically not suffer from frost, since cold air naturally accumulates in the lowlands.
An essential characteristic of a rose planting area is the degree of soil moisture and the level of groundwater. Roses extremely poorly tolerate wet soils that interfere with the circulation of oxygen, are too cold in the winter and have high acidity. Filling the gravel pillow into the planting pit will mitigate this problem a little, but it will not solve it completely, therefore it is better to drain water from the rosary, planted on moist soil, using drainage tubes.
You can learn more about how to arrange a water drainage system on a site from the material: //diz-cafe.com/voda/drenazh-uchastka-svoimi-rukami.html
Also important is the temperature of the air and soil in the zone where the rosary is broken down - the optimal indicators for air are 15-22 degrees, soils - 17-20 degrees. Both overheating of the earth and its low temperature are bad - in both cases, the development of the rose is inhibited, the number of flowering shoots is reduced. To prevent excessive heating of the soil between the bushes of ground cover roses, it is mulched with peat, humus, freshly cut grass.
As for the composition of soils, the most favorable soil for any roses is loamy, well transporting moisture and oxygen to the rhizome of the plant. Rose seedlings are poorly accepted in dry sandy soils, which overheat in the summer, freeze in the winter and poorly retain nutrients. Skinny sandy soils can be improved by compost mixed with peat, clay, soddy soil. The rocky and heavy clay soil, in which it is recommended to add sand, peat, compost, rabbit or chicken rotten droppings, as well as to drain with small grooves, is not entirely successful for the rosary.
An interesting solution for garden decor can be a flower bed with ground roses, repeating the outline of the path
The acidity of the soil is of fundamental importance for the successful cultivation of any varieties of roses, including groundcover, in the open ground, since the royal flower is quite capricious - neither a critically acidic reaction of the soil with a pH less than 7, nor an alkaline one with a pH greater than 7, is optimal. slightly acid reaction in the range from 5.5 to 6.5 pH.
To determine the acidity of the soil, you can use litmus paper, which, when interacting with an aqueous solution of the soil, will change color to blue if alkalis prevail in the soil or red when there is an excess of acid. More accurate soil analyzes are done by specialized agricultural institutes. Soils with high acidity are neutralized by powdered limestone, gypsum, bone or dolomite flour, ash. With an alkaline reaction of the soil, it is acidified with superphosphate, sulfur, peat, coniferous or leaf humus.
You can learn more about how to chalk the soil in the garden from the material: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/izvestkovanie-pochvy.html
Thanks to numerous miniature inflorescences, the rose garden from ground cover roses is always a catchy and spectacular corner of the garden
Before breaking up the rosary, it is also necessary to analyze which crops grew before on the selected site. It is unacceptable to plant roses where the rosary has existed for 7-10 years or rosaceae have been growing - hawthorn, snowdrop, pear, apricot, cherry, and others. Although, if desired, the depleted soil can be selected to a depth of 50 cm and replaced with a fertile mixture consisting of clay, compost, mineral fertilizers, humus or well-rotten manure.
Due to its abundant color, ground cover roses form a colorful carpet that can revive a fence or pergola
When placing groundcover roses in compositions with other garden plants - in mixborders, flower beds, it is advisable to provide optimal distances between planting groups in order to make it convenient to approach the flowers for pruning, dressing, watering without damaging their "neighbors". The distance between rose bushes in the flower garden ranges from 30 centimeters to a meter and depends on the characteristics of the variety, the shape and size of the bush, the growth rate of shoots.
Stage # 2 - Preparing for Landing
Wells for planting ground cover roses are best prepared in advance - at least a few weeks before the seedlings move to the ground. For autumn planting, it is optimal to form pits in the spring, for spring - in the fall, pre-marking the site taking into account the shape and growth of the bushes:
- Seedling in a container. Despite the fact that suppliers of planting material advise planting a rose in a grid, often its root system is not properly prepared for this procedure - the tips of the root processes are bent or broken. Therefore, the rhizome of the rose must be carefully freed from packaging, shortened to 30-35 centimeters, to remove broken or damaged shoots. However, most often the integrity of the coma is not violated, and in order to stimulate the growth of the root system, several incisions are made in it to a depth of about 2 cm.
- Sapling with an open rhizome. If a seedling of a landscape rose was purchased with an open cropped root system, then it is recommended to update its slices before planting. With this root system, drying of its processes is often observed, so we advise you to hold the roots of the flower in water for a day on the eve of moving to open ground.
High-quality and viable rose seedlings should have three well-developed shoots and a fairly branched root system with a significant number of small processes. Please note that the diameter of the stock and scion was the same - within 6-8 centimeters. Before planting in the garden, foliage and buds located below the grafting are removed from the flower shoots, cut off broken and unripe branches, the rhizome is shortened to approximately 20-35 cm, and the aerial part is cut to 25-35 cm. Before planting ground cover roses in the garden, it is recommended disinfect the seedlings with 5% copper sulfate, and dip their roots in a creamy mixture of clay mash and mullein in a ratio of 2 to 1.
You can grow a rose from the stem yourself, read about it: //diz-cafe.com/vopros-otvet/razmnozhenie-roz-cherenkami.html
The extraordinary popularity of groundcover roses has led to the creation of hybrids combining the qualities of carpet and stump roses
The extraordinary decorative color of ground cover roses, combined with their unpretentiousness, have gained mass popularity among gardeners for these varieties.
The ground cover rose will create a truly unique corner of the garden, expressive due to the many inflorescences forming a living floral carpet
Stage # 3 - we analyze the types of seasonal planting
For regions with warm winters, autumn planting of creeping and carpet roses in open ground is more preferable, and for areas with harsh and frosty winters, spring.
Spring planting of roses (April-May)
Often, adverse weather conditions in the spring hinder the planting of the seedling immediately after acquisition, so you need to take care of its safety - put it in a box or bucket, fill it with moistened sand above the grafting and cover it with a film stretched over the frame. You can store seedlings in a cool room or in a trench. Having chosen the most elevated place on the site, dig a trench with a depth of about 50 cm with one gentle slope, pour sand on the bottom of the sand and place the seedlings of roses in the prikop, having previously shortened their rhizome to 30-35 cm. It is necessary to lay the roses on the inclined side of the trench, placing the lapnik and by deepening the flower in the prikop 10 cm below the graft or root neck. Sprinkle the seedling with sand, pour and compact this layer, and then cover it with earth and cover it with spruce branches.
During spring planting of roses in the ground, all shoots of roses are cut so that strong plants have 2-3 buds, weak plants have 1-2 buds. Although the shoots of carpet roses most often do not cut, they only shorten the root processes.
Autumn planting of roses (September-October)
Autumn planting of landscape roses is recommended between mid-September and mid-October. A later planting in combination with a cool autumn can lead to the fact that the roses do not have time to take and will freeze in the winter. Before moving the roses into the open ground, it is necessary to shorten the shoots a little, since the main pruning of the flower is always performed in the spring.
Stage # 4 - landing in the open ground
To plant ground cover roses, pits are formed in the selected area with a depth of 50-70 cm and a diameter of about 50 cm, it is also permissible to dig a trench of the same depth and width as the landing hole during mass planting. The depth of the pit for planting is formed based on the length of the roots of the seedling plus 10-20 cm.
If the land on the plot is swampy and clay, then gravel sand is poured on the bottom of the hole for planting, and if light sand - a clay layer of about 10 cm is laid. When the soil is unsuitable for roses, planting pits dig deeper - up to 70 cm. It is also necessary to loosen the bottom planting holes so that the flower takes root faster. During planting, it is advisable to water the soil, which fills the hole, in layers - so you will prevent the formation of voids, and after planting, you need to ram the top layer of soil, water it abundantly and spud the rose. After the new shoots on the bush reaches 5 cm, it is recommended that the roses be expanded and mulched.
A curious solution for the rosary is a decorative mulch. How it looks and where else it can be used: //diz-cafe.com/dekor/dekorativnaya-shhepa.html
In areas with fertile or bulk soil, its upper cut (on the bayonet of a shovel) is taken to knead the soil mixture, which is then used to fill the planting holes. The bottom of the pit for planting roses is slightly raised by a soil mixture consisting of garden soil and peat (humus), taken in equal parts.
It's important to know! The recipe of the soil mixture to fill the planting pits when planting ground cover roses: garden soil - 2 buckets, turf land - 1 bucket, sand - 1 bucket, weathered clay - 1 bucket, humus - 1 bucket, peat - 1 bucket, ash - 2 cups, bone meal - 2 cups, superphosphate - 1 cup.
Stages of dry planting roses:
- The soil mixture is poured with a hill to the bottom of the landing fossa.
- The seedling is lowered into the hole and the roots are straightened so that they do not bend upward, and the budding site is approximately 3-5 cm below the ground.
- The rhizome is gradually covered with a prepared soil mixture, compacting the ground with your hands, and at the end - the upper layer is densely tamped with your feet.
- The seedling is abundantly watered and the location of the vaccine is checked - in case of subsidence of the earth, it is poured, after raising the bush.
- The rose is spudded to a height of about 20 cm and covered with a box or spruce branches for a period of about 10 days to form a shadow zone, which will contribute to the adaptation of the plant and the development of new shoots.
Stages of wet rose planting:
- One or several buckets of water enriched with sodium humate are poured into the landing pit.
- Holding the seedling, the hole is filled with the planting mixture, sometimes shaking the bush for optimal distribution of soil between the processes of the root system. At the same time, the vaccination site is buried by 3-5 cm relative to the soil level on the site.
- The bush is spudded and covered with wooden shields or spruce branches.
- After the buds of a rose give a shoot of about 5 cm, the shade that is creating the shade is taken apart, the plant is knocked out, watered and covered with a layer of peat mulch about 5-7 cm thick.
It's important to know! Mulch protects the plant from overheating, drying out and hypothermia, does not allow weeds to enter the territory adjacent to the rose, and contributes to the rapid rooting and further development of the flower. As a rule, roses are mulched with peat, compost, humus.
Stage # 5 - leaving the first summer after planting
In the event that the soil was not sufficiently enriched before moving the seedlings to the open ground, during the first summer after planting the roses are fertilized with slurry, a mixture of mineral additives and chicken manure. At the end of August, they begin to prepare flowers for winter, feeding them with a phosphorus-potassium mixture (20 g of potassium sulfate and 25 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. Meter plot). Watering the rosary from mid-July is minimized so that shoots on the bush have time to form and get stronger before freezing. In the first year after planting, special attention is required to the process of leaving and forming bushes of ground cover roses, for which all the shoots emerging from the root neck or grafting are cut into a ring to activate their growth and branching, and they are pinched on the lateral, actively developing shoots, and the faded buds are removed .
Stage # 6 - watering, fertilizing and pruning
Although it is believed that planting and caring for a ground cover rose do not require special efforts, nevertheless, the minimum measures to maintain the decorativeness of a flower must be carried out - to make sanitary pruning of the bush, as well as to feed with a combination of mineral and organic fertilizers.
The main pruning of roses is made annually - in the spring, and is aimed at rejuvenating the bush. After assessing the condition of the flower, it is necessary to remove broken, damaged by frost, dry branches, cutting them to fresh wood. You also need to get rid of shoots directed to the center of the bush, old - 3 and 4-year-old unproductive branches, and the remaining processes to shorten to 7-10 buds, counting from the base of the shoot. Medium and weak pruning is applied to the ground roses, and every 5 years they are pruned to update the bush. Some experts believe that carpet roses should not be trimmed so as not to disturb their natural shape - this is especially true for creeping roses with long shoots that throw out color on last year's wood.
Watering roses is done at least once a week in the morning directly under the bush with a little warm water. The volume of water required varies from the size of the rose and reaches 10-15 liters. Young roses are watered more often and more for better rooting. Lack of moisture is better for roses. than its overabundance, but may affect the abundance of flowering and the size of inflorescences.
In addition to weeding, watering and trimming bushes, it is necessary to periodically fertilize the rose garden. The traditional scheme for feeding landscape roses:
- April. Nitrogen fertilizers after trimming - ammonium nitrate, urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). In a week - organic fertilizers (rotted manure per half a bucket for each bush)
- May. If top dressing necessary for ground cover roses was not done in April, then fertilizers can be applied in early May. A good alternative to urea and ammonium nitrate is granular mineral fertilizers, which are poured dry under the bush and require subsequent loosening and watering of the soil. After fertilizing the soil with mineral fertilizers, organic additives are introduced - infusion of chicken manure or mullein.
- June. In early June, when rose buds, the soil is enriched alternately with calcium nitrate, organic fertilizers and foliar top dressing with double superphosphate, ash infusion and mullein solution. In mid-June, before flowering, roses are fertilized with potassium and magnesium sulfates or sodium humate per 2 l of solution for each bush.
- July. After flowering, roses are fed with substances with a large amount of phosphorus and potassium, as well as organic fertilizers and foliar fertilizing in the form of a solution of ash, a mixture of trace elements, potassium nitrate, superphosphate.
- August. At the beginning of the month, organic fertilizers were last applied, after a couple of weeks - potassium-phosphorus bait, another week later - potassium sulfate, as well as foliar additives - ash solution, double superphosphate, micronutrient fertilizers.
- September. Kalimagnesia top dressing, the termination of watering, preparation for wintering.
Due to its frost resistance, landscape roses do not require careful winter shelter, like other varieties of roses - they can safely survive frosts under the cover of snow, without any additional warming.
The falling branches of a ground-white rose can ennoble any container, even made of ordinary red brick
Other tips for creating rose gardens with any type of rose: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/rozarij-svoimi-rukami.html
Choosing groundcover roses as a royal decoration for your garden plot, you will never be mistaken - having an expressive decorative look, creeping and carpet varieties will not require significant labor costs in maintenance and, regardless of anything, they will always please with intense flowering.