The evergreen herbaceous plant from the Pertsov family - peperomia - feels great in gardens where there are no frosts, as well as on window sills. Juicy bright greenery makes a picturesque contrast with flowering plants, for which it is appreciated by flower growers.
Peperomia stupidis and care for her at home
Peperomia got its name for the shape of a leaf plate. Short and wide fleshy leaves have a rounded tip. In indoor floriculture, the following varieties were most widely used:
- Alba - the leaf has a plain light green color;
- Variegata - cream-colored specks are randomly scattered on the leaves;
- Albomarginata - the sheet has a gray-green color and a silver border around the edge.
Adult peperomia
In total, over 1100 species are known. They differ from each other in the size and color of the leaves. On average, the height of adult bushes ranges from 15-50 cm.
For your information! There is a division into ampelous and bush varieties. The length of ampelous lashes reaches half a meter, and bush lashes - only 30 cm.
Variegate Peperomia
Three varieties of this type of peperomia, derived exclusively by breeding, are known:
- blunt - Obtusifolia Variegata;
- Magnolivorous - Magnoliaefolia Variegata;
- clubus - Сlusiifolia Variegata.
All have variegated leaves that are slightly thinner than other species, and the coloration is darker at the central vein and lighter towards the edges. In care, variegate varieties do not have features that distinguish them from others. It is quite possible to plant in one pot with other succulents, especially those who like spraying.
Flowering peperomia
An adult plant with the onset of summer seeks to throw out as many peduncles as possible. They do not represent decorativeness and practically do not smell. Outwardly, they look like smooth leafless spiky shoots of a lighter color than leaves.
Blooming Peperomia
Leaving all peduncles is not recommended. Many owners prefer to break them all off. The thing is that the bush spends a lot of effort on flowering to the detriment of the development of foliage, and maybe even wither.
Note! Seeds are not always tied.
Home Care
With proper handling, the flower grows quickly enough. The most active vegetation occurs in the warm season, and in winter peperomia almost freezes, and it is watered no more than 2 times a month. Placed on the eastern, southern and western windows, as she loves bright light. However, it is not worth putting a pot near the glass itself, since reflected or scattered light is preferable. It is best to place the flower behind its larger neighbors, as is the case under natural conditions. In South America, peperomia is easy to find in a hot and sunny, but shady forest.
Care after purchase
When choosing a plant, you should pay attention to its appearance. Healthy does not have dark spots on the shoots and leaves, and the leaves themselves are juicy, elastic with a slight matte or glossy shine. Lethargy, like dry patches, is a sign of disease damage or improper care. It is highly likely that such an instance will not work back to life. The best time to buy is spring.
Peperomia variegata
Since flowers are sold only in transport pots in stores, you need to immediately transplant at home. To do this, choose a new pot, fill it with fresh soil, and the already transplanted bush is kept for several days away from other indoor plants in quarantine in order to avoid infection. If there are no alarming signs, then the newcomer is put up for permanent residence and begin to look after him.
Preparation: flower pot selection and soil preparation
The new pot should be 3-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one, and only 1-2 cm in height. Ideally, this is a wide and shallow bowl. The root system of the flower spreads more in breadth than in depth. But you should not give her too much space, since there is a high probability of rotting of the roots. Old soil is best disposed of. For this, the plant is removed from the store container, immersed in a container of water so that the soil is wet and washed.
Peperomia loves nutritious and loose soil. It can be bought, focusing on the designations - "for succulents" or "for decorative deciduous". But you can make the soil yourself. To do this, take two parts of deciduous humus and add to it one part of washed river sand and peat.
Important! The signal for a subsequent transplant will be the tip of the spine that appears from the hole in the bottom of the pot.
Temperature and humidity
The decorative appearance of peperomia is maintained at the optimum temperature and humidity. In spring, autumn and summer, you should maintain a temperature in the range of 20-25 ° C. In winter, a decrease to 16 ° C is permissible. If the bush is too hot or cold, he will let you know by dropping the leaves.
Humidity should be above 60%. In too dry air, the leaves will wrinkle and dry at the tips, which will sharply worsen the appearance of the whole plant. That is why in the heating season or dry hot summer, next to the pot, you should install an open container with clean water.
Watering and spraying peperomia
Peperomia is very moisture-loving, but does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. It is watered regularly up to 3 times a week in the summer, preventing the drying of the top layer of the soil. Particular attention is paid to the presence at the bottom of the pot of a thick layer of drainage and wide openings to drain excess water. For irrigation take boiled water at room temperature.
Peperomia albomarginata
Spraying is a favorite bush procedure. It is carried out every morning, trying to get water droplets on all the leaves. Due to its shape, the leaves can be easily cleaned in this way, since dust with droplets of moisture just flows down the veins and shoots.
Common methods of reproduction
On sale, you can rarely find seeds. They are sown on the soil surface, abundantly sprayed with water and covered with a transparent film or glass for a greenhouse effect. If the seed is fresh, then the seedlings will appear within 2 weeks. The ideal time for sowing is April.
But it’s much easier to get a young bush from a cut shoot. To do this, take a freshly cut twig with 3-4 leaves and immediately stick into a pot with moist soil, deepening by 2-3 cm. In the future, the soil is regularly moistened.
Note! It takes no more than 1-2 weeks to root.
In rare cases, individual leaves may be used for propagation. A leaf with a petiole, just neatly cut, is suitable. It is left to dry for 1-2 hours, and then stuck in the ground. Top recommend covering with a glass jar. Such rooting is slower, but generally takes no more than 3 weeks. An unsuccessful result is immediately visible - the sheet will simply fade.
Table: peperomy-typical diseases and pests
Title | Manifestation | Methods of struggle |
Rot of roots and root neck | The roots are the first to be affected, followed by the leaves. The bush will quickly fade, the root neck becomes watery, the roots turn black. | At the earliest stage, all damaged parts are cut off, the entire plant with roots is dipped in a solution of fungicide Switch 62.5 WG and planted in new soil. |
Viral dwarfism | All parts of peperomia are smaller than normal and deformed. | Not. |
Spider mite | Multiple bleached and dried spots on the leaves. | Acaricidal treatment with an interval of two weeks until a positive effect. Nisoran, Apollo are suitable. |
Thrips | Visible to the naked eye - small (up to 2 mm in length) black insects on leaves that become sticky, turn yellow and dry. | Double treatment with insecticides: actar, fitoverm, mospilan, karate. |
Mealybug | White and fluffy, mildew-like plaque appears on the leaves. | Twice with an interval of two weeks, the treatment with insecticides of phytoverm, actar. |
Nematode | Roots are the first to suffer, which first thicken and then die off. They are replaced by thin and lethargic ones. | Treatment with nematophagin and BI-58 helps. |
Important! If the pest is not known, then it is recommended to carry out the treatment of the ground part with aphidol. It is sprayed on shoots and leaves, and washed off after half an hour. After 5 days, the treatment is repeated. In total, they will need up to five.
Peperomia: Cropping
Overgrown bushes need shaping pruning. This procedure is recommended to be carried out in the spring, but if necessary, you can use the summer or autumn months. Shorten the shoots, extending more than 30 cm in length. Leave a section with 3-4 leaves, and cut the rest with sharp scissors or secateurs.
After a short time, kidneys will appear at the cut, from which lateral shoots will grow. If you want to admire a beautiful bush for many years, then you need to be serious about pruning.
Peperomia Obtusifolia (Obtusifolia)
A common type of blunt peperomia has a yellowish border along the edge. The leaves are shiny due to the wax coating on their surface. Venation expressed, has an arcuate shape. Flowering is the same as in all other varieties - nondescript, spiky.
Peperomia obtusifolia
The shoots are erect at first, and then bend down under their own weight. The greatest decorative effect is achieved by hanging the planter on the wall or in the window opening, allowing the branches to hang freely down. Very fond of partial shade and daily spraying with warm boiled water.
For a beginner, the content of peperomia is difficult only in that it does not tolerate neglect. Every morning it is necessary to check the soil moisture and perform traditional spraying. But bright greens will be the best reward for daily attention.